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How
to socialize and Habituate a puppy, follow-up to last
article. (Courtesy of Association of Pet Behavior
Counselors & Diane Sullivan)
While I still believe it is important for the puppies to have the right start
in life with a responsible breeder who recognizes that proper stimuli be given
to the puppies before they are taken to new homes, the prospective new family
can perform a few simple tests to ensure the puppies are content and confident
at that stage of development. You can clap your hands or drop your keys to
see how well the puppies react. Do they move away from the sound or toward
it to investigate it? A mild reaction to the sounds and then quick recovery
from the surprise is ideal. One of the biggest signs is the puppies' response
to the presence of strangers, for example, the prospective buyers. They should
be willing to approach and investigate the newcomers and be happy to allow
themselves to be handled.
Visitors:
Make sure your puppy receives lots of visitors of both sexes and all ages.
This will develop social experiences and help to keep territorial behavior
on the more manageable level in later development. Make sure the visitors only
say "Hi" to the puppy and don't make a fuss over the puppy until
the initial excitement has subsided.
Children:
Make sure your puppy gets used to being handled by your visitors' children,
but don't let them pester it or treat it as a toy. Arrange to meet someone
with a baby regularly, especially if you plan on having a family of your own
in the near future. Remember that this commitment to your puppy is only the
beginning. So many of my clients call me after having a baby and are concerned
on how their 4 or 5 year old dog will act, or is acting.
Feeding: Make sure you get your puppy used to you and other members of the
household adding food to its bowl when it is eating. This helps teach it that
you are not a threat and help to prevent the development of food related aggression
later in life. On the other hand, teaching your puppy that you can take its
food away, while its eating is a bad idea, this approach can cause food aggression
later in life.
Grooming:
Groom or handle you puppy every day, even breeds that do not require extensive
brushing or grooming later in life. The act of grooming will accustom your
puppy to being thoroughly handled and it can also stem the development of dominant
behaviors.
Veterinary Exams:
At least every other day examine your puppy's ears, eyes, teeth, lift and check
paws and under the tail. When your puppy is content or used to this kind
of treatment, see if other people will do it (animal-loving friends are
easier to talk into doing this.) The purpose of the exercise is to accustom
your puppy to veterinary exams, which is very important, especially if
an emergency situation arises.
Everyday Sights and
Sounds:
Let your puppy experience the sound of vacuum cleaners, spin dryers, dishwashers,
etc., but don't make an issue of them. They should get used to them gradually
without being stressed by them. If you have your postman and regular delivery
people coming to the house let your puppy say "Hi" to them so as
not to create an atmosphere of aggression about their comings and goings.
Leash Training:
Prepare your puppy to walk on a leash by first getting it used to its collar
inside. All puppies will do what I call "the bucking bronco routine" on
the leash the first time you use it. So once it is used to wearing a collar,
then attach a piece of rope or some type of line inside and let the puppy drag
it around, then pick up the rope and use small tugs plus encourage it with
a treat or toy to walk with you. I also use a "walk-about exercise" in
class to help associate walking on a leash with you after it's been used to
the collar and leash for a few days inside.
Learning to be left alone:
While socialization is very important, so is learning to be left alone. Puppies
who are not accustomed to being left alone on a regular basis are much more
likely to suffer from some type of separation anxiety. Three symptoms of separation
anxiety are destructiveness, incessant howling or barking and loss of potty
training inside. To help prevent this get the puppy used to being left alone
for an hour or so in the beginning. You can do this in their crate if you are
crate training, and can even do it while you are home but away from you in
the house, like in a laundry room area or other room of the house. Try it with
the door to the room open then over a period of time shut the door. Do not
go back in if the puppy is crying; return when it's quiet. If a puppy thinks
it can call you back it may never accept being alone. Do not make a fuss when
leaving or coming home. You will only be setting it up for leaving if you say "bye-bye" and
talking as soon as you arrive only highlights the loneliness of your absences.
Things to do away from home: Go
to all the places you can think of that will help
your puppy become "bomb proof." Always
start with quieter areas. If it's the street start
with quieter side streets. Places where people congregate
and may be interested in gently handling your puppy.
In the car, take it everywhere, so the puppy won't
know the only time in the car is meant for the vet's
office.
Finally, what should you do if a puppy shows fear while you are socializing
it?
- Do not overreact. If you coddle
or try to soothe a puppy you could be reassuring
or re-enforcing its fear. As "pack leader" you
should appear to be unaffected and unworried so you
set an example.
- Do not try and pressure the
puppy into approaching the item or person, as you
will highlight its fear by drawing more attention
to it.
- Expose the puppy at a safe
distance to the stimulus that worried it as often
as possible so they become desensitized to it. As
the puppy becomes less worried bring the object or
people closer.
- Reward the puppy every time
they do not react to the stimuli, or as soon as it
recovers from its fright if it does react.
Don't forget you, too, can have a "Good
Dog." Let me show you how!
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